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Offline goporkyourself

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HVAC question
« on: August 14, 2018, 05:36:53 PM »
Long story short I’ve been fixing all kinds of stuff in this house I bought a few months back. Knew that was the deal going in. This place is full of pathetic stuff like this.

So, should I try to get a new drip pan for this guy or try to fix this one? The pan has leaked in the past as there is water damage on the ceiling below. I can’t tell if it overflowed somewhere or if it cracked somewhere.

How much (ballpark) to have someone replace the pan? The milk jug is typical of how the previous owner dealt with things. I empty it every couple weeks.


Offline bleedinred

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2018, 05:50:54 PM »
My first thought is you shouldn’t be leaking any water into a drip pan and/or jug. The Pan is there only if you have an issue. The unit should be draining into a pipe that runs to your sewer.

Second thought is that the Pan will need to drain to the outside of your house. Is there a disconnected pipe there now or does that need to be run as well?

Last, Why isnt there a Pan there now?  Did the previous owner take it out?  If so, that would tell me the unit can be lifted high enough to slid a new one in place. .

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Offline goporkyourself

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2018, 07:11:43 PM »
there is a drain line connected to another fitting on the unit. or what i assume is a drain line that runs out through the attic. maybe i should just call an ac guy to look at this. 

that black thing in the picture IS the drip pan. its filled with dirt and old insulation and shit.

i suppose i could run a second line from this drain over to the other one and tee it off but i don't know why there's 2 to begin with.


Offline Animal

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2018, 07:25:50 PM »
What is very common is a clogged drain line. Maybe not enough to make it overflow full retard but enough to where it's a problem you know about.

That's the first thing to check if you haven't already. You can find a place to cut the pvc loose at the evap coil and blow it out with compressed air or your mouth. Get you some couplings and pvc glue and put it back. You can get down there and blow it out with your mouth and that will tell you it's clogged. A clear drain line you should be able to blow through like blowing through a very large straw. Typically this drain line will lead outside usually by the AC unit. It can't be too clogged or you would have a hell of a lot more than a jug every couple weeks. It would fill that secondary pan and either pool up until it ruins a ceiling or run out the emergency drain that should be placed in a conspicuous area like over a window or in a garage. To do it right you have to detach the pvc and blow it out. This ignores the coil that could have issues like excessively dirty or putting algae tablets in the pan.

It could have a cracked or rusted pan in the primary. It's not uncommon for someone to step on a drain line and not realize they caused damage like a crack in the pan. I doubt that is a metal pan in that coil so I wouldn't suspect rust. Also there would possibly be signs of rust in the secondary pan or out the drain lines. The entire coil/support structure could have sagged over time and is out of level slightly causing issues. I will say this one looks well supported. .

That one looks like an older Rheem/Ruud coil so a replacement pan may not be readily available. A lot of times they have to be ordered and a bit of a wait. I'd be totally spitballing on the price ballpark, but I'd say $300 to $500 easily. New coil installed would be much higher.


Offline bleedinred

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2018, 07:42:19 PM »
I see the Pan now.

First, get a shop vac and clean out the pan.

Second, I agree that you most likely have a slight clog in the main line. Cut the pipe and run a fish tape/wire/compressed air/stinky breath through the pipe to make sure the line is clear.

Third, there should be a line inning from the pan to the outside of the house. Like Animal said it should exit the house over a window but definetly in an eve. With that said my overflow line runs through the wall and exits right above the foundation. I have a two story house though which is why it was ran this way.

Fourth, you will need an AC guy if you want to get into the evaporator coils. Most likely you won’t want to mess with removing the putty and/or tap that holds the housing together.

You probably should pay the $85 service charge and have the entire system inspected.

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Offline goporkyourself

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #5 on: August 14, 2018, 07:43:17 PM »
Sounds like the home warranty company may be getting a call. This house has 4 units and the other 3 don’t drip at all from that black fitting


The emergency line is on the other side and goes out through eve just above a set of deck stairs

« Last Edit: August 14, 2018, 07:45:36 PM by goporkyourself »

Offline Animal

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #6 on: August 14, 2018, 07:55:43 PM »
Sounds like the home warranty company may be getting a call. This house has 4 units and the other 3 don’t drip at all from that black fitting


The emergency line is on the other side and goes out through eve just above a set of deck stairs

Just so I'm clear. The black pan below (secondary/emergency drain pan) may also have a clog or crack, but it's not intended to always have water in the pan. The coil positioned above it has a pan attached to it that is unseen in this picture...where the pvc lines emerge. The black drain pan should have a overflow switch in it or attached to the side that would cut off the AC unit in the event of a clog.

On Home Warranty: Be prepared to buy a service agreement on those 4 systems as most of the time the home warranty company will require it.


Offline bleedinred

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #7 on: August 14, 2018, 09:03:14 PM »
4 units?  Jebus Christopher. You rich people. What is your square footage?

My 2 units are 4 years old and I don’t have a kill switch on the pan. It’s a great thing to have but if you dont just know it doesn’t mean it’s missing.

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Offline goporkyourself

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #8 on: August 14, 2018, 09:18:03 PM »
4 units?  Jebus Christopher. You rich people. What is your square footage?

My 2 units are 4 years old and I don’t have a kill switch on the pan. It’s a great thing to have but if you dont just know it doesn’t mean it’s missing.

Around 3400 sq ft. Got a good price because it needed a lot of work. But the location is awesome. It zoned 1 unit for master, 1 for basement, 1 main floor, 1 upstairs. 4 smaller units. The one that is leaking is the main floor unit.


Offline bleedinred

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #9 on: August 15, 2018, 06:50:36 AM »
Our house is 4500 sq ft.  We have one unit for down and one for up.  Best thing we did was zone the master separate from the rest of the down stairs.  The one for upstairs is probably too small for the footage.

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Offline razorwire

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #10 on: August 15, 2018, 08:53:01 AM »
Best thing I ever did was to get rid of the split system and replace with a package unit.  No.  My house is not 4,000 s.f.  Not that there is anything wrong with that.


Offline bleedinred

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #11 on: August 15, 2018, 09:46:35 AM »
Best thing I ever did was to get rid of the split system and replace with a package unit.  No.  My house is not 4,000 s.f.  Not that there is anything wrong with that.

Why a package unit over a split?  And is it located outside on a pad, in the attic, or on the roof?

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Offline razorwire

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #12 on: August 15, 2018, 09:54:10 AM »
Why a package unit over a split?  And is it located outside on a pad, in the attic, or on the roof?
When bought house, had a split system.  The air handler was under the house and attached to the floor joist.  There was a distinct dip in the floor from the weight and after being removed the joist had moisture damage.  To treat the damage (would have had to remove floor to replace joist which should have been done).  New package unit was place outside of house and a hole was knocked in brick curtain wall for the duct work.  Couple of years ago after twelve years of service, the unit went under water and we replace with a new package unit on a raised concrete block and treated wood deck.

« Last Edit: April 10, 2019, 01:27:33 PM by razorwire »

Offline bleedinred

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #13 on: August 15, 2018, 09:58:48 AM »
I have always wondered why AC units (either split or packaged) were not put in an air conditioned room of a house.  Most attics have the space to accomplish such a space. Seems it would last longer and not work as hard if it was  in a temperature controlled environment.

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Offline razorwire

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #14 on: August 15, 2018, 10:03:44 AM »
I have always wondered why AC units (either split or packaged) were not put in an air conditioned room of a house.  Most attics have the space to accomplish such a space. Seems it would last longer and not work as hard if it was  in a temperature controlled environment.
The only split system I have owned, had the air handler in the garage.  It was a slab house with the duct work in the slab.  Great in the winter.  However, we had a problem during one of the spring termite swarm periods and termites started coming out of the floor ducts.  Heavy drilling and poison injection was required for the entire house.


Offline pigtacular

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #15 on: April 09, 2019, 07:18:00 PM »
Tried to turn on my AC last night and it blew out UNcooled air.   The outside unit is not coming on.   This system is right at 2 yrs old.  Does a capacitor go out that quickly?

Any ideas?

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Offline Animal

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #16 on: April 09, 2019, 07:19:59 PM »
Tried to turn on my AC last night and it blew out UNcooled air.   The outside unit is not coming on.   This system is right at 2 yrs old.  Does a capacitor go out that quickly?

Any ideas?

It can. Capacitors come from places like China and Pakistan...


Offline pigtacular

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #17 on: April 09, 2019, 07:46:48 PM »
It can. Capacitors come from places like China and Pakistan...

Thought it was humming like I've heard on a bad capacitor in the past, but I think that was coming from the dehumidifier in the crawlspace.

The outside unit doesn't make any noise at all.

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Offline Animal

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #18 on: April 09, 2019, 08:00:28 PM »
Thought it was humming like I've heard on a bad capacitor in the past, but I think that was coming from the dehumidifier in the crawlspace.

The outside unit doesn't make any noise at all.

Did you check your breaker for the outside unit?

If you have it set to cool, typically you hear a buzz outside down by the access panel and that is the contactor that’s getting 24 volt call from the thermostat. If you don’t hear that...it’s possible you have a blown fuse, transformer, weedeatered wire...etc.


Offline Joe Swine

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #19 on: April 10, 2019, 10:27:31 AM »
A rat got in and chewed the wires.  Bugs clogged up the contactor.  Open it up and have a look.


Offline razorwire

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #20 on: April 10, 2019, 01:29:13 PM »
A rat got in and chewed the wires.  Bugs clogged up the contactor.  Open it up and have a look.
... or call somebody and spend some money.


Offline Joe Swine

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #21 on: April 10, 2019, 01:45:39 PM »
I don't get city people.


Offline pigtacular

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #22 on: April 10, 2019, 06:49:34 PM »
Ended up being a loose wire.   Guessing it happened with the fellas regrading and encapsulating my crawl space.

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Offline pigtacular

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #23 on: May 25, 2019, 08:22:16 PM »
My 2 yr old HVAC system has a leak.

How often does that happen?

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Offline bleedinred

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Re: HVAC question
« Reply #24 on: May 26, 2019, 07:35:14 AM »
My 2 yr old HVAC system has a leak.

How often does that happen?

Is it a Lenox and is it the evaporator coils?

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